fix hot reloading `/etc/niri/config.kdl` (#1907)

* refactor config load logic, and properly watch the system config path

* move config creation to niri-config, and make the errors a bit nicer

notably, "error creating config" is now a cause for "error loading
config", instead of it being one error and then "error loading config:
no such file or directory". also, failure to load a config is now
printed as an error level diagnostic (because it is indeed an error, not
just a warning you can shrug off)

* refactor watcher tests; add some new ones

now they check for the file contents too! and i added some tests for
ConfigPath::Regular, including a messy one with many symlink swaps

* fixes

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Co-authored-by: Ivan Molodetskikh <yalterz@gmail.com>

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